THE RUBY JOURNAL · HERITAGE JEWELLERY
Nauratan: Nine Gems, One Setting
Nauratan—nine gems—is one of the subcontinent's oldest jewellery compositions: nine different stones set into a single piece, arranged so the whole is read before any one stone is. The tradition began as a map of nine celestial bodies and became, over centuries, a jewellery form in its own right.Prepared and reviewed by the Ruby Jewellers house team in Lahore · Updated 3 September 2026An older tradition than any single house
The nine-gem composition takes its name from Sanskrit—nava, nine, and ratna, gem—and its origins lie in a nine-part system of celestial bodies used in subcontinental astrology. Worn as jewellery rather than studied as a diagram, it became a recognisable form at Mughal-era courts, and has been made across the subcontinent, in various styles, ever since.
The nine stones, by tradition
By tradition, a complete nauratan piece holds ruby, pearl, red coral, emerald, yellow sapphire, diamond, blue sapphire, hessonite and cat's eye—nine stones, each traditionally associated with one of nine celestial bodies. The stones are usually arranged around a central gem, most often the ruby, with the remaining eight set in sequence around it.
Reading the composition, not the count
Nine different colours have to sit together without any one stone taking over the piece. A well-composed nauratan setting balances warm stones against cool ones around its centre, so the eye moves evenly around the piece rather than settling on a single gem.
What to look for at a private appointment
Because nine stones of different value sit side by side, each deserves individual attention—clarity, colour and cut—rather than one general impression of the piece. A private appointment allows each stone to be considered on its own, in a considered light, before the setting is judged as a whole.
The setting carries real responsibility
Nine stones of different hardness sit in the same piece, and the setting has to protect the softer materials—pearl, coral—as carefully as the harder ones—ruby, sapphire, diamond. How securely each stone is held matters as much as how the nine are arranged.
Caring for a nine-stone piece
A nauratan piece is only as resilient as its most delicate stone. Pearl and coral need gentler handling than the mineral stones beside them, so clean and store accordingly. Ruby welcomes pieces back for inspection if any stone loosens or a setting begins to wear.
Questions, answered
What does nauratan mean?+
Nauratan, or navratna, means 'nine gems'. It is a traditional jewellery composition that sets nine different stones into a single piece, most often a ring or pendant.
What are the nine traditional stones in a nauratan piece?+
By tradition: ruby, pearl, red coral, emerald, yellow sapphire, diamond, blue sapphire, hessonite and cat's eye, each traditionally associated with one of nine celestial bodies in subcontinental astrology.
Does the astrological meaning of nauratan promise anything?+
No. The nine-stone associations are a longstanding tradition, not a guarantee. A nauratan piece is chosen for its craftsmanship, stone quality and setting, as any fine jewel would be.
